"Today, I will talk about the Shukubô - 宿坊 in Japan.
Well, you never know, I checked on Booking.com in case of... and surprise! I found many of the temples listed there.
It was really easy to reach Koya-san once you are in the train. The Koya-san station's staff indicates you the way and help you to find the right bus, points the station where to stop if you tell your shukubô name. I even got a map of the area with info.
One of the Monks took my suitcase and asked me to follow him. We were going to the room, wow so early, I was lucky because I wanted to take a little rest before visiting around.
On the way to the room I was amazed of the place, long corridors, going to right, then left, then a bit up... how will I find my way back lol
The Monk explained me that I have to use the geta (wooden sandals) to get on the balcony and in the garden. These can't be used inside.
After I went for a little walk in the small town, but that's for another entry in this blog ;)
It's nearly 17:00, time to go to the dinner room. Some other visitors are already there. I go to the little table that a monk shows me.
Time to eat, itadakimasu!
Let me explain a bit the dinner now.
Like said before, it's a vegetarian meal. After this one I was quite full.
On the left side, the meal, and right side all the sweet stuffs. A bit like the main course + dessert, but in fact you can eat both at same time. I saw at least the only Japanese amongst us doing it.
Like you can guess, a big bowl of ride, if you want more you can request it. A light miso soup, some tempura (fried vegetables), beans, pickles.
In the black bowl(closed), there is goma dofu, a typical food from the area and traditional food of the Monks in Koyasan. It looks like "tofu" but it's totally not. If you are like me, not a fan of tofu, worry not, it is much more better! It's made from sesame seeds. The texture is more like a pudding, with a soft taste. You can eat it in different ways, salted or sweet. Here on the goma dofu was added soy sauce and green onion. And then a grappe jelly.
Then the other side composed by a cup of green tea (you can request more of course), fruits, bamboo root, and some kind of pickled vegetables with a sweet taste.
For once, I really took my time to eat. Some arrived after me and left before. Japan is usually so fast, that it was important to enjoy a meal peacefully.
After the meal, I stand up slowly, because the seiza is really not a comfortable position for me haha. Then say thank you to the monks and returned to my room.
It is still early, and I want to have a walk even if it's dark.
The Temple gate is illumitated during the night time, which give a more impressive attitude to the 2 guardians (statues).
So, after the night walk I came back, decided to relax and chill on the balcony.
There is a public bath, that I didn't use.
Not being familiar going naked amongst other people, even when it's only females, I prefer to skip this.
Maybe in the winter time it would be more nice...
So, yes, chilling on the balcony at night time, starring at the stars, the silence, the impressive forest at the back of the garden... I didn't want to sleep.
Just enjoying this nice experience, feeling the vibes of Koya is really good for the soul.
If you want to connect with nature, spirits, or anything that resonates with you, this is really the perfect place.
I had my oracle cards with me, and it gaves really interesting messages that I never had so far.
Time to get some sleep! As you can notice, I'm wearing a kind of orange kimono, this one reminds us a lot the color of the Monks clothes.
That night I had a pretty good sleep. It was bit hard to find it first as 2 rooms further there was an older Japanese couple with the TV playing for a while. Not that it was loud, but as everything is silent, you hear everything. And I was wondering why you stay in a temple to watch TV???
Better to sleep anyway as I had to wake up really early. The breakfast was at 7:30am, but before you are invited to join the morning ceremony of the monks. I was not obliged to, some didn't come or arrived late. But it is something to experience. You can sit on mini chairs or sit in Seiza... which I tried to keep, but well, it's really hard to keep for 30min in a row.
When the monks where saying the prayers, I saw one who had to move discretely often as it didn't look comfortable for him either. When they finish they chants/prays you are invited to a little ceremony. Taking the ashes in a bowl to put them on a little fire and then do your pray. There were 3 spots, you can do only one or the 3, like you feel.
Fortunately, one of the visitors was Japanese and he explained in English what to do. Otherwise none would understand what was said.
I didn't take any photos of the ceremony as respect for this invitation.
So, after the ceremony we were invited to join the breakfast room.
Big bowl of rice, miso soup, pickles, a kind of tofu, some nori leaves, and seaweed. It was more light than the dinner.
There were more people at the breakast than the dinner... some tourists were bit noisy, talking more loud. I noticed that when peole are travelling in a group of 4 or 5 min, they are always noisy, unless it's Japanese I guess.
It was still early, the check-out was at 10:00am, I decided to chill again on the balcony and enjoy the view. I planned to stay all day in Koyasan, so, no rush.
Had a walk in the garden to take some pictures, sit on a bench near the pond, think about nothing, forgetting the stress of the city and daily life.
On the 2 days, I sometimes saw monks walking in the garden.
When the check-out time arrived, I finally left the room, thinking that I should have stayed more nights. But as a 1st experience, sometimes it's better to have a short stay to see if you like it.
To be honest, I have no idea when the crowded season is. Probably spring & autumn are fully booked.
I thought that in the summer it would be full of tourists, but it wasn't in mid/end-August.
Also, I went there on a week day, the weekend is surely more crowded.
And, really important point:
You know that the summer in Japan is super hot and so humid, Osaka area is even worse than Tokyo.
But, Koyasan was so nice!
It was warm with the sun, but totally not humid... and no mosquito attacked me!
When I left the Temple, a Monk arrived and said "Oh you are leaving now?" I answered yes, then he left and came back quickly saying "this is a present for you".
Another present, this is so nice!
After searching on the net I found what it was exactly. This is a scent bag called "Kaori Bukuro" "香り袋"
There is a message on the paper saying:
"香り袋.
恋が芽ばえ 好きになり 愛となる 夫婦となりて しあわせに"
Meaning: "Scent bag. The love seed is growing, start from liking, then turn into love, become couples, and happiness ever after."
Before to leave I also got my "goshuin" www.helcanen.be/ontheroad/blog/goshuin.html
I thanked the Monks sincerely, if I could I would say again them thank you for this memorable time. ありがとう!!!
So, I let you enjoying a bit more pictures below, and if you have any question, feel free to use the comment box ;)
The Shukubô means "accomodation" but more precisely in a Temple held by Monks.
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| Can you imagine sleeping there? |
I learned about this term only in 2017, when I was preparing my 8th trip in Japan.
Indeed, it's really late, but none of my friends told me about the possibility to stay in a Temple, probably because they are not so interested.
In fact, I heard that there was a possibility to stay overnight in a temple since some years, but thought that it would be reserved for Japanese people or the Pelgrims. Thought also that it whould be way too complicated to reserve a night without speaking Japanese.
I was so wrong!!!
Most difficult was to choose the best one haha.
This summer, I was staying in Osaka for some weeks, then I had to find new things to do there, more places to visit around etc.
Before the trip I saw some posts about the Mount Koya (Koya-san) and the shukubô.
I found some links of the temples where you can stay, the list was really long!
And when I visited the Toursit office in Osaka station, I found a flyers with the Koya-san trip info.
And when I visited the Toursit office in Osaka station, I found a flyers with the Koya-san trip info.
Well, you never know, I checked on Booking.com in case of... and surprise! I found many of the temples listed there.
Checking then the rates, the comments, the options... and picked up the "Sekishoin". Of course, I wanted to enjoy the full experience and so, reserved also the dinner + breakfast.
For 1 night I paid around 100€.
It sounds expensive, but, if I can do it again, I will for sure!
You will understand why below ;)
Of course, I was lucky with the reservation, I couldn't choose the room, so maybe I could have recieved another one at another floor. This is why I can't tell you to go here or there. Make your own choice amongst all the shukubô.
Let's start now to talk about the experience!
First time to do an overnight stay in a temple, nobody around me to explain how it works, so I went there alone as a total newbie.
It was really easy to reach Koya-san once you are in the train. The Koya-san station's staff indicates you the way and help you to find the right bus, points the station where to stop if you tell your shukubô name. I even got a map of the area with info.
I took the bus, then stopped at my shokubô and with some hesitation passed the temple's gate. I had no idea where to go. Just saw the name Sekishoin.
Finally entered in the temple after to have removed my shoes. Saw a little office where monks where sitting in seiza, doing some administrative stuffs I guess.
Finally entered in the temple after to have removed my shoes. Saw a little office where monks where sitting in seiza, doing some administrative stuffs I guess.
It was noon, a bit too early for the check-in. I thought that I would just let my stuffs there and directly visit around. But they took care of the check-in directly, payment was even ok with a credit card, and some speak English. From outside you cannot guess that the temples are connected to the net haha.
One of the Monks took my suitcase and asked me to follow him. We were going to the room, wow so early, I was lucky because I wanted to take a little rest before visiting around.On the way to the room I was amazed of the place, long corridors, going to right, then left, then a bit up... how will I find my way back lol
While walking, he showed me the dinner/breakfast room, then the ceremony area etc.
When he opened the room, I was like "wow, wow, wow"in my head. The room was just amazing!!!
When he opened the room, I was like "wow, wow, wow"in my head. The room was just amazing!!!
A big tatami, the futon already ready, and the balcony... a beautiful view on the traditional garden.
The room was at the 1st floor, in Japan 1F means the street level, there is no 0.
I could access to the garden directly from my balcony.
The Monk explained me that I have to use the geta (wooden sandals) to get on the balcony and in the garden. These can't be used inside.
He explained a bit everything about the dinner time, etc.
When he left the room, I recieved a gift from the monk, he said that it is a happiness wristband.
The kindness of the Monks there was surprising, I was expecting polite, severe and formal attitude only.
And yes, I decided to take a little rest, enjoying the beautiful view.
I found a thermo full of warm green tea and a cookie. Many of you know how I love green tea, I couldn't let it waiting longer hehe.
I let you enjoying some pictures of the view.
After I went for a little walk in the small town, but that's for another entry in this blog ;)
Then, I returned before 17:00 (5pm), to be sure that I won't be late for the dinner.
The dinner and breakfast you recieve are the same than the Monks are eating daily. It's healthy and vegetarian.
It's nearly 17:00, time to go to the dinner room. Some other visitors are already there. I go to the little table that a monk shows me.
The temple is not crowded, contrary to what I though.
Time to eat, itadakimasu!
Everybody was silent, that was nice atmosphere. And this is the reason why my photos are not great... I took discreet pictures with my phone. Thought that important to respect the place.
Let me explain a bit the dinner now.Like said before, it's a vegetarian meal. After this one I was quite full.
On the left side, the meal, and right side all the sweet stuffs. A bit like the main course + dessert, but in fact you can eat both at same time. I saw at least the only Japanese amongst us doing it.
Like you can guess, a big bowl of ride, if you want more you can request it. A light miso soup, some tempura (fried vegetables), beans, pickles.
In the black bowl(closed), there is goma dofu, a typical food from the area and traditional food of the Monks in Koyasan. It looks like "tofu" but it's totally not. If you are like me, not a fan of tofu, worry not, it is much more better! It's made from sesame seeds. The texture is more like a pudding, with a soft taste. You can eat it in different ways, salted or sweet. Here on the goma dofu was added soy sauce and green onion. And then a grappe jelly.
Then the other side composed by a cup of green tea (you can request more of course), fruits, bamboo root, and some kind of pickled vegetables with a sweet taste.
For once, I really took my time to eat. Some arrived after me and left before. Japan is usually so fast, that it was important to enjoy a meal peacefully.
After the meal, I stand up slowly, because the seiza is really not a comfortable position for me haha. Then say thank you to the monks and returned to my room.
It is still early, and I want to have a walk even if it's dark.
The Temple gate is illumitated during the night time, which give a more impressive attitude to the 2 guardians (statues).
So, after the night walk I came back, decided to relax and chill on the balcony.
There is a public bath, that I didn't use.
Not being familiar going naked amongst other people, even when it's only females, I prefer to skip this.Maybe in the winter time it would be more nice...
So, yes, chilling on the balcony at night time, starring at the stars, the silence, the impressive forest at the back of the garden... I didn't want to sleep.
Just enjoying this nice experience, feeling the vibes of Koya is really good for the soul.
If you want to connect with nature, spirits, or anything that resonates with you, this is really the perfect place.
I had my oracle cards with me, and it gaves really interesting messages that I never had so far.Time to get some sleep! As you can notice, I'm wearing a kind of orange kimono, this one reminds us a lot the color of the Monks clothes.
That night I had a pretty good sleep. It was bit hard to find it first as 2 rooms further there was an older Japanese couple with the TV playing for a while. Not that it was loud, but as everything is silent, you hear everything. And I was wondering why you stay in a temple to watch TV???
Better to sleep anyway as I had to wake up really early. The breakfast was at 7:30am, but before you are invited to join the morning ceremony of the monks. I was not obliged to, some didn't come or arrived late. But it is something to experience. You can sit on mini chairs or sit in Seiza... which I tried to keep, but well, it's really hard to keep for 30min in a row.When the monks where saying the prayers, I saw one who had to move discretely often as it didn't look comfortable for him either. When they finish they chants/prays you are invited to a little ceremony. Taking the ashes in a bowl to put them on a little fire and then do your pray. There were 3 spots, you can do only one or the 3, like you feel.
Fortunately, one of the visitors was Japanese and he explained in English what to do. Otherwise none would understand what was said.
I didn't take any photos of the ceremony as respect for this invitation.
So, after the ceremony we were invited to join the breakfast room.
Big bowl of rice, miso soup, pickles, a kind of tofu, some nori leaves, and seaweed. It was more light than the dinner.
There were more people at the breakast than the dinner... some tourists were bit noisy, talking more loud. I noticed that when peole are travelling in a group of 4 or 5 min, they are always noisy, unless it's Japanese I guess.
 |
Had a walk in the garden to take some pictures, sit on a bench near the pond, think about nothing, forgetting the stress of the city and daily life.
On the 2 days, I sometimes saw monks walking in the garden.
When the check-out time arrived, I finally left the room, thinking that I should have stayed more nights. But as a 1st experience, sometimes it's better to have a short stay to see if you like it.
To be honest, I have no idea when the crowded season is. Probably spring & autumn are fully booked.
I thought that in the summer it would be full of tourists, but it wasn't in mid/end-August.
Also, I went there on a week day, the weekend is surely more crowded.
And, really important point:
You know that the summer in Japan is super hot and so humid, Osaka area is even worse than Tokyo.
But, Koyasan was so nice!It was warm with the sun, but totally not humid... and no mosquito attacked me!
When I left the Temple, a Monk arrived and said "Oh you are leaving now?" I answered yes, then he left and came back quickly saying "this is a present for you".
Another present, this is so nice!
After searching on the net I found what it was exactly. This is a scent bag called "Kaori Bukuro" "香り袋"There is a message on the paper saying:
"香り袋.
恋が芽ばえ 好きになり 愛となる 夫婦となりて しあわせに"
Meaning: "Scent bag. The love seed is growing, start from liking, then turn into love, become couples, and happiness ever after."
Before to leave I also got my "goshuin" www.helcanen.be/ontheroad/blog/goshuin.html
I thanked the Monks sincerely, if I could I would say again them thank you for this memorable time. ありがとう!!!
So, I let you enjoying a bit more pictures below, and if you have any question, feel free to use the comment box ;)
 |
| My little companion on both days |
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